Switzerland is a mountainous wonderland reputed for its timely precision, sequestered accounts, yodeling goatherds, and the majestic Swiss Alps, crowned by the world-renowned Matterhorn.

Let's toboggan down to San Francisco's version of the Matterhorn, owner-operated for 5+ years by a Swiss couple, Brigitte and Andrew Thorpe. A friend introduced me to this distinctive place a year ago. He has a fondness for fondue, the seminal 70s fad, when people ascended mountains to ski, and après, to sip hot toddies and dip nibbles into a bubbling cauldron of melted cheeses.

On a weeknight at the Matterhorn, leaving busy Van Ness Avenue, we entered a cozy Swiss chalet nestled in snow-capped peaks. Brigitte immediately seated us in a wooden booth with simple cushions. A fruity kirsch and kir royale ($6-8) whetted our appetites for the hearty fare to come.

- Excerpt from Matterhorn Restaurant, The Swiss Matter in SF by Laurie Timms