The true test of an exceptional Italian restaurant doesn't lie in newfangled interpretations of old dishes or plates presented so artfully it's almost a shame to dig in, but in how they render the time-honored classics: Does the Alfredo sauce sing? Are the veal shanks melt-in-your-mouth tender? Il Cantuccio gets high marks on all points. Sure, you'll find sophisticated menu choices that boast major culinary flair - such as the braciole di maiale: roasted pork layered with prosciutto and mozzarella accented by an exquisite rosemary and sage wine sauce - but it's the sublime rendering of Italian staples that makes Il Cantuccio a bastion of authentic Tuscan fare. - Excerpt from Il Cantuccio, Subtle Italian in the Mission Dolores by Jen Robbins